If it solidifies entirely, sand it smooth. Sand all surface areas with the grain utilizing 100-grit paper. To ensure no bits of dust mar the surface, vacuum the cabinets inside and out, then rub them down with a tack fabric to capture any debris that the vacuum misses out on. Dee states, "Hand sanding is the best strategy on oak due to the fact that you can press the paper into the open grain, which a power sander or sanding block will miss out on. Cabinet Painters 28215." When using a tack fabric, unfold each brand-new cloth completely, down to one layer, then fold it to get the greatest dust collection surface area.
But they just sink into open-grained woods such as oak, ash, mahogany, or hickory. Brushing putty, the pudding-thick, oil-based finishing Dee used on these oak cabinets, fills the grain as it primes the wood. A number of cautions: It ought to be applied with a good-quality nylon-polyester brush, which you'll have to get rid of after each coat.
Beginning at the top of the cabinet, brush on the primer or brushing putty throughout the grain, then "tip off" pass the brush gently over the damp finish in the direction of the grain (Cabinet Painters 28213). Constantly tip off in a single stroke from one end to the other. Give it a day to dry.
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Sand any profiled surfaces with a medium-grit sanding sponge. When you're done, everything ought to be glass-smooth. Follow the hidden structure of the cabinet or door with the brush. Where a rail (horizontal piece) butts into a stile (vertical piece), for example, paint the rail initially, overlapping a little onto the stile.
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Where a stile butts into a rail, paint the stile first. Squeeze a thin bead of latex caulk into any open joints. Pull the pointer as you go, then smooth the caulk with a moist finger. Fill any small dents, scratches, or dings with vinyl spackle, smoothed flat with a putty knife.
Spot-prime the spackle, and any areas where the brushed-on guide is "burned through," with a spray can of fast-drying oil-based guide. Wait an hour, then sand the guide lightly with 280-grit paper. Vacuum all surface areas, and clean with a tack fabric. The hole in a caulk tube's pointer need to be no bigger than the tip of a sharp pencil.
Work from top to bottom, using the paint across the grain, then tipping it off with the grain. For cabinet interiors, apply the paint with a smooth-surface mini roller, which leaves a minor orange-peel texture. Sand all surface areas with 280-grit paper, then vacuum and tidy with tack cloth. Cabinet Painters 28213. For the last coat, break out a new brush.
Brushes select up dust, so always put paint into a different container to prevent contamination of the paint in the can. If any paint is left over, pour it back into the can just through a fine-mesh strainer. The technique for prepping and painting doors, drawers, and racks is the same as on the cabinets, other than that all the work is done on a table to lower the opportunity of drips, runs, and sags. Cabinet Painting 28270.
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Follow the same prep sequence as for cabinetsclean with deglosser, fill the holes, sand, vac, and tackand the same priming series: in this case, 2 coats of brushing putty. Smooth the flat surface areas on the panel and the frame with a random-orbit sander. On bevels or profiles, use elbow grease and a medium-grit sanding sponge.
When priming or painting paneled doors, brush in the following sequence to get the best-looking surface area in the least quantity of time: begin with the location around the panel, then do the primary field of the panel, then end up with the stiles and rails around the edges. As you go, clean up any paint that winds up on surrounding dry surface areas. Cabinet Painting 28206.
After vacuuming and tacking all the surface areas, spray a fast-dry primer on any areas with spackle or bare wood where the sandpaper "burned through" the primer. Wait an hour prior to sanding - Cabinet Painters Charlotte NC. Eliminate all dustfirst with a vacuum, then with a tack clothand use the surface coat. Pointer it off with the grain.
Vacuum and tack every piece, then brush on the final coat. To prevent drips on outside edges, pull the brush toward them. To prevent drips in corners, first discharge the brush by scraping off the paint, then paint by pulling the brush away from the corner. If a drip laps onto a dry surface, wipe it up right away.
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John Dee, a perfectionist, prefers to do one side at a time, keeping the faces flat so they don't get runs. However that's two days of drying time per doorone day per side. Here's his method for painting both sides in a day. Twist 2 screw hooks into holes drilled in an unnoticeable door edge (the lower edge for bottom cabinets, the upper edge for top cabinets).